The granita arrives first, almond or lemon, with a warm brioche on the side for dipping. It's barely nine and the stone of the piazza is already warm under your sandals. Somewhere above the rooftops, Mount Etna is wearing a thin ribbon of cloud.
Sicily is Italy turned up, with stronger sun, baroque churches dripping in gold, and lemons the size of your fist. It's also more relaxed than the Amalfi Coast, with one polished exception in Taormina.
This guide covers what to wear in Sicily stop by stop, from the beach below Taormina to the cathedral steps in Cefalù to a late dinner in Ortigia, plus the small capsule that covers the trip. You're going to look like you were born on the island.
How to dress for Sicily
Sicilian style is warm, sensual, and a little dramatic, but it never looks like it's trying. Three principles get you there.
Dress for the heat first.
July and August often reach the 90s Fahrenheit, and the sirocco wind from Africa can push it higher. Linen, cotton, and loose silhouettes do the work, and a hat and sunglasses are part of the outfit.
Pack for stone.
Sicily's old towns are paved in polished stone and lava rock, with steep lanes and church steps everywhere. Flat sandals with grip by day and a low heel at night will carry you anywhere.
One piece of drama for the evening.
Lace, satin, or a bold print, with everything else simple and gold jewelry to finish. Sicily wears a little glamour beautifully after dark.
For the bigger picture on fabrics and color, see the unofficial guide to dressing for a European summer.
What to wear in Taormina
Taormina is the island's most polished town, perched on a cliff above the Ionian Sea. Days are for Corso Umberto's boutiques, the ancient Greek theater with Mount Etna behind the stage, and the cable car down to the beaches at Mazzarò. Evenings are for terrace dinners and a passeggiata that feels like a runway. (Yes, this is the town from season two of The White Lotus, and it dresses the part.)
For Daytime in Taormina: Linen Two-Piece Set.
A sleeveless V-neck top and wide-leg pants in breathable linen, so you look pulled together on the Corso and stay cool on the climb to the theater. Wear the pieces together, or split them: the pants with a swimsuit for the beach, the top with a skirt for lunch.
For Dinner in Taormina: Classy Bodycon Maxi Dress.
Sleek, simple, and floor-length, this is the dress that lets Taormina bring the drama: a candlelit terrace, the sea going dark below, the lights of the coast coming on one by one. Minimalism looks expensive here, and it gives your gold all the attention. Add statement gold earrings and a low heel, and you're ready for Taormina's best tables.
What to wear on the beach
Sicily's beaches range from the pebbled cove at Isola Bella, the tiny island nature reserve below Taormina, to the long pale sand at Mondello near Palermo. Most have lidos, beach clubs where you rent a sunbed and umbrella for the day and lunch is a few steps away.
For the Beach: Button-Down Beach Cover-Up.
A lightweight long-sleeve shirt that goes over your swimsuit and protects your shoulders from the midday sun. Wear it open on the sunbed and buttoned for lunch at the lido. On pebbled beaches like Isola Bella, slip-on flat sandals make the walk to the water much easier.
For what goes in the tote, see what to pack in your beach bag.
What to wear in Cefalù
Cefalù is a medieval fishing town on the north coast, with a sandy beach right below its old walls and a golden Norman cathedral under the great rock of La Rocca. It's easy to spend a day here moving between the beach, the lanes, and a long lunch.
For Cefalù: Linen Wrap Maxi Skirt with Linen Halter Top.
A flowy cotton-linen wrap skirt and a backless linen halter, pretty for the beach walk and the harbor at sunset. The maxi length is useful here: Sicily's cathedrals usually ask for covered knees and shoulders, so the skirt is already right, and a light scarf over the halter covers your shoulders at the door.
What to wear in Ortigia
Ortigia is the island at the heart of Syracuse, a maze of honey-colored baroque streets with the sea on every side. Mornings start at the market, afternoons mean swimming off the rocks and the wooden platforms set up along the seafront in summer, and evenings end in Piazza Duomo, one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, glowing white after dark.
For Evening in Ortigia: Tiger Mist Julianna Cami Maxi Dress.
A slinky triangle-cami maxi with adjustable straps, simple enough for the piazza and pretty enough for a seafood dinner by the water. Pair it with gold and flat sandals for the stone streets, or a low heel if you're sitting down.
The boat day look
Boat trips run along the coast below Taormina, out to the Aeolian Islands from the north coast, and around Ortigia's sea caves. A day on the water means swimming straight off the deck and lunch somewhere you can only reach by sea.
For the Boat: Two-Piece Cover-Up Set.
A light, matching top and bottom you can pull over a wet swimsuit, with no worrying about wrinkles. It dries fast, packs into a tote, and looks put together when the boat stops for lunch.
The finishing touches
Evening Shoes: Square-Toe Kitten Heels.
Backless, square-toed, and low enough for stone streets and stairs. They work with both maxi dresses, the wrap skirt, and the linen pants, so they're the only heels you need to pack.
Jewelry: Kendra Scott Brynne Shell Pendant.
A small gold shell on a short chain, a quiet nod to the sea that looks right with every look in this guide. Add gold hoops and keep the rest simple. If shells and pearls are your thing, the mermaidcore dinner lookbook has more.
Bags: a straw tote by day and a small clutch at night. Sunglasses and a hat are essential in July and August.
The Sicily capsule: one week, one carry-on
Here's the formula that covers a week, from Taormina to Ortigia:
- Days: the linen two-piece set, the linen wrap skirt, the linen halter top, and one or two simple tees or tanks
- Beach and boat: two swimsuits, the button-down cover-up, and the two-piece cover-up set
- Evenings: the minimalist maxi and the Julianna cami maxi
- Shoes: flat sandals with grip, the kitten heels, and closed shoes if you're going up Etna
- Extras: a light scarf for churches, a hat, sunglasses, and the shell pendant
Everything shares one palette of cream, sand, and a little black or color, so every piece mixes with every other. For more dinner dress ideas, see Mediterranean dinner dresses for every reservation.
Frequently asked questions
What should I wear in Sicily in summer?
Light, breathable fabrics like linen and cotton, in loose silhouettes that let air move. Pack flat sandals with grip for stone streets, one or two dressier pieces for dinner, a hat, sunglasses, and a scarf for visiting churches. July and August are hot, so dress for the heat first.
Do you need to cover your shoulders in Sicily?
Yes, but only in churches. Sicily's cathedrals, including Cefalù and Monreale, usually ask visitors to cover shoulders and knees. Carry a light scarf in your bag and choose a midi or maxi skirt on sightseeing days, and you'll be ready at every door.
Is Taormina dressy?
Yes, but in a relaxed way. Taormina is the most polished town in Sicily, especially in the evening along Corso Umberto and at the hotel terraces. A lace or satin dress, gold jewelry, and a low heel feel right for dinner, while linen sets and flat sandals are perfect by day.
What shoes should I pack for Sicily?
Flat sandals with a grippy sole for daytime, a low or kitten heel for dinners, and slip-on sandals for pebbled beaches. If you're visiting Mount Etna, bring closed shoes, since the paths are loose volcanic gravel.
What should I wear to visit Mount Etna?
Closed shoes and a warm layer, even in summer. Temperatures drop sharply as you climb, and the higher areas can be windy and cold when the coast is in the 90s. Wear sunglasses and sunscreen too, since the sun is strong at altitude.
What colors work best for Sicily outfits?
Cream, white, sand, and black are classic, and lemon yellow, coral, and cobalt blue echo the island's ceramics and markets. Every color is welcome, and Sicily's warm light is kind to all of them.
By the end of the week there'll be salt in your linen, a tan line from that halter, and a standing order for almond granita. Saluti, bella.
